Vintage Watches: Aged to Perfection

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Vintage Watches: Aged to Perfection

Written by admin on October 29, 2009 – 6:41 pm -

What you should know about buying vintage
If you want a timepiece with stand-out style—or just one that no one else can get—think vintage. But in watchspeak, vintage means more than just cool-looking or rare. Edward Faber, owner of New York vintage retailer Aaron Faber Gallery, uses the term to define collectible watches made between 1935 (roughly when Swiss technological improvements like shockproofing were invented) and 1985 (when CAD/CAM, a computer system that factored out the watchmaker’s hand, became the manufacturing standard).

Whether you’re buying a $500 Hamilton or a $50,000 Patek Philippe, you’re making an investment—one that could pay off significantly over time. Here, Edward Faber, owner of New York vintage retailer Aaron Faber Gallery, tells you what you need to know.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Moonphase (circa1950)

•Look for the big two brands. “There’s a pyramid with around fifty top brands,” says Faber, “but at the very apex are only two: Patek Philippe and Rolex.” Stick with them for quality and appreciative value.
•Ask for papers. “Original documentation that came with the watch when it was manufactured, with serial numbers, can add enormous value.”
Patek Philippe Moonphase Perpetual Chronograph

•Know your metals. “With contemporary watches [those made after 1985], platinum trumps white gold, white gold trumps pink, pink trumps yellow. And all of those trump steel. With vintage watches, though, steel can often trump all the metals.” Why? “A steel chronograph made during the war years, in the ’40s, is extremely rare, and thus more unique and valuable.”

18K-gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date (circa 1980s, left) and 18K-yellow-gold Rolex Oyster Cosmograph (circa 1970s)

What Makes an Heirloom Watch
Want a watch that will outlive you? Consider the following
•Choose one that goes easy on the bells and whistles—like Patek Philippe’s white-gold Calatrava (shown). “The Calatrava concept is to keep it simple,” explains Hank Edelman, the venerable brand’s U.S. chairman. “This look was introduced in the 1930s to have a lasting style and an elegant, clear, open design.”
•Classic watches from respected high-end companies are pretty much guaranteed to increase in value—because they increase in rarity—over the years.
•Go for a timepiece that’s mechanical rather than quartz. Sure, quartz fulfills the “it lasts” half of the equation—but really, it’s the hands-on commitment and craftsmanship that you want to pass on to your son or grandson.