Rose gold experienced a wave of popularity during the 1940s, when pure gold was more difficult to come by. Postwar, watchmakers and jewelry designers reverted back to traditional yellow and white gold as the mainstays. For purely stylistic reasons, however, the last decade has seen a shift back toward the copper-infused alloys.
The richness of rose, especially when accented with a stunning bracelet, offers a definite statement of modern style and stature. It also brings a certain authenticity to today’s fashionable retro trend, with watchmakers reinterpreting vintage 1940s watches nearly without exception. Indeed, rose- and pink-gold timepieces have become the universal must-have among today’s serious collectors and casual buyers alike.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition watch ($36,150) features a Goldust Dream mother-of-pearl Roman dial. It is crafted in Rolex’s proprietary 18k Everose gold (created as a special alloy) and features a bezel set with 12 diamonds and another 11 on the dial.

Crafted entirely in 18k rose gold, the ladies Omega Constellation Co-Axial watch ($25,700) features an alluring satin and polished link bracelet. Housing the Omega Co-Axial Calibre 8521 movement, the timepiece also boasts a unique, rich brown dial.

Chopard’s Happy Sport Mini watch ($33,660) has a tobacco-colored dial and is set with 34 diamonds weighing a total of one carat. It also features five moving diamonds, houses a quartz movement, and is water-resistant to 30 meters.

Frédérique Constant’s Ladies Automatic ($4,250) houses a 25-jewel automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, as well as an Incabloc shock absorber. The movement is beautifully decorated with guilloché patterning and dual heart-shaped cutouts, and is visible through a sapphire caseback.

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PARIS — Luxury watchmakers are flying high again, buoyed by a spectacular recovery in sales last year, and the optimism reflected in a flood of new models on show at the Salon de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this week is also palpable in vintage watch salerooms.

For many, last year marked a full recovery from the global crisis that hit the market in 2008.
In the new watch sector, figures tallied and estimated by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry indicate that the Swiss industry’s export sales for the whole of last year probably reached 16 billion Swiss francs, or $16.5 billion, their second-highest level ever and just short of the record 17 billion francs achieved in 2007, according to Jean-Daniel Pasche, the federation’s president.
In the reseller’s market, the global auction houses also had an impressive year.

For Christie’s, global watch sales in 2010 reached $91.2 million, the highest ever reported by an auction house in the watch category, topping the previous record of $88 million, set by Christie’s in 2007.

“This was quite a spectacular year, proving that watches are as hot as ever,” said Aurel Bacs, international head of watches at Christie’s, in an interview from Geneva.
“Regardless of the state of world economies, watches have increased in popularity among the planet’s population,” Mr. Bacs added.

For Sotheby’s, global sales topped $40 million, nearly doubling the previous year’s total of $20.6 million, in line with what Geoffroy Ader, European head of watches, described as a stellar year for auctions in all categories.
“We were fortunate to catch the interest of collectors from around the globe, with timepieces for every taste and every type of collector,” Mr. Ader said in Geneva.

Smaller, more specialist houses, in contrast, fared less well. Antiquorum ended 2010 with $45.8 million in global watch sales, down nearly 30 percent from $65.2 million in 2009, despite holding the same number of auctions.
“Antiquorum restructured on a global basis in 2010, resulting in a temporary, and expected, downturn in turnover,” said Charles Tearle, a director of Antiquorum New York.

Still, Mr. Tearle said he shared the general optimism about current trends. “Now the restructuring is complete, and we expect to see an increase in global results for 2011,” he said.

Also on the downside, Patrizzi & Co. Auctioneers, the house created by Antiquorum’s former owner, Osvaldo Patrizzi, ended operations in Geneva and New York in late 2010, undone mainly by problems with its online bidding system, a core part of its competitive strategy.

Mr. Patrizzi plans to resume operations in Hong Kong sometime this year, focusing on the Chinese market, said Leo Verhoeven, its chief financial officer.

One brand, Patek Philippe, was overwhelmingly responsible for raising watch sale revenues last year, auction house tallies show.
Christie’s reported that it sold five watches last year that fetched more than $1 million — two more than in 2009 and all of them Patek Philippes.

The highest grossing lot last year was a 1943 Patek Philippe reference 1527, a gold perpetual calendar wristwatch that sold in May at a Christie’s Geneva sale for 6.25 million francs.

Sotheby’s did well in the historic watch category, selling a Cartier desk timepiece dated 1926 for £79,250, or $125,000 — 10 times its estimate — in London in December. It also sold a Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona stainless steel wristwatch, estimated at 60,000 to 80,000 francs, for 464,500 francs in Geneva in November.

The relatively swift recovery of the watch market demonstrated that the earlier slide reflected more a generalized loss of confidence during the financial crisis than a serious crisis of overvaluation, Mr. Bacs said, explaining that starting in autumn 2008, the global economic downturn dampened sellers’ confidence, with consignors hesitating to part with their timepieces.

“After a difficult fall 2008, marked by Lehman Brothers’ bankruptcy and later the Madoff affair, we were faced with serious seller hesitation to consign,” he said. “No one knew how badly things could turn out.”

Despite a difficult second half of 2008, Christie’s managed to end the year with $70.2 million in global watch sales, against Sotheby’s $43 million. The downward trend continued in 2009, with $67.2 million at Christie’s and $20.6 million at Sotheby’s.
“Still, there was never any indication of waning buyer’s interest even during the crisis,” Mr. Bacs said.

While financial markets remained in turmoil, Christie’s managed to obtain the consignment of several important private watch collections, including the “Connoisseur’s Vision” collection secured in the summer of 2009.

“The decision to sell that collection was made by the owner in 2009, based on that year’s half-year results, while the world was traversing a severe financial crisis,” Mr. Bacs said. “The spring of 2009 was a definite turning point in our market.”

The Connoisseur’s Vision collection, sold in a four-part auction starting in autumn 2009 and culminating in the record-breaking sale of the Patek Philippe for $5.7 million last spring, achieved a total of $19 million, making it the most valuable private collection of wristwatches ever sold at auction.

For Christie’s, that consignment, by itself, was a sign of the independence of the watch market from global economic conditions.
“There is correlation between the watch market and the economy — but not necessarily parallel behavior,” Mr. Bacs said. “In some instances, the worse the economy is faring, the better certain markets will do. When confidence is undermined in the financial markets, investors take a closer look at art, watches, diamonds or real estate as an alternative investment class.”

Last year, the highest increase in demand for new watches, according to the Swiss watch industry figures, came from Greater China, with Hong Kong’s share of Swiss watch exports exceeding 2.8 billion francs in 2010 — an increase of about 46 percent compared with 2009 — and mainland China importing watches valued at over 966 million francs, nearly 55 percent more than the previous year.
In the resale market, as reflected in the major auction houses, a similar phenomenon occurred.

“Whatever the impact of the global crisis, we were more than compensated by the demand that came out of China,” said Mr. Bacs, of Christie’s.

For Sotheby’s, too, “the largest growth in demand for auction watches in 2010 came out of Greater China,” Mr. Ader said.
Bidder registrations allow auction houses to assess the geographic provenance of buyers and bidders in a sale.

“Ten years ago, there were no Chinese bidders at watch auctions,” Mr. Bacs noted. “At Christie’s last Geneva auction, of the 800 registered bidders, 50 percent were Asian, and a quarter from mainland China. Our Hong Kong sales have an even a higher percentage.”

Mr. Tearle of Antiquorum reported a similar trend. “We have seen a 20 percent increase in Asian bidders over the last two years,” he said.

To accommodate the increase in Asian participation, Antiquorum held two Hong Kong auctions last year, up from just one in 2009, posting a sales total of $10.3 million in that venue, double its results in the previous year.
This year, Antiquorum plans to add one more Hong Kong sale to its calendar, while also continuing to preview its New York and Geneva sales in Asia.

If economic predictions are accurate, the upward trend in the watch market should continue beyond this year. The retailing and consumer products sectors, including watches and other luxury goods, will remain “strong and steady” in Asia, according to a report issued in December by PricewaterhouseCoopers, which predicts an average 6 percent growth in those Asia-Pacific markets through 2014.

“For many collectors, parking their funds in a fine timepiece is an intelligent choice,” Mr. Bacs said. “With a fine Patek Philippe, an exceptional Rolex, a rare Lange & Söhne, in limited series and good condition, how wrong can you go?”

The new watches have the same 40mm width, but a slightly different shape of case and a new "maxi dial." Like the other new Submariners and GMT Master II, the dial has larger hands and hour indicators. Plus the lume should glow blue. Another wonderful addition to the steel Submariners is the ceramic bezel. Rolex calls it "Cerachrom," and they do it probably better than anyone else. The ceramic has a beautiful tone and is very crisp looking. Compared to the ceramic bezel on the GMT Master II, the Submariner bezels are a more matte finished.

A broader case looks elegant as ever and still thin. Even though the Submariner is smaller at 40mm in size that most modern men's watches, it still holds it own quite well. A bold wrist look that you just can't beat. Don't forget that the case is water resistant to 300 meters in this "original" mainstream true diver's watch. The larger hands and indexes make the face easier to read and dare I say, more Rolexy. The case is not made of grade 316L steel, but rather the higher grade grade 904L steel that has all sorts of special chemical resistance abilities.

Green is a color that Rolex is known for using in special models. The release of a new mainstream Submariner model is a special occasion. It is a substantial tone that isn't too bright or dark. The dial is metallic, while Rolex calls "Green Gold." There is another reason for the green face - to help get existing Submariner buyers to get one. If you have a previous generation Submariner there isn't huge incentive to upgrade unless you are "that type of person." But with a new dial color, and potentially new personality, existing fans will see reason to add to their collection.
Thankfully we now have a Submariner with the famous Rolex Glide-Lock clasp. This gives the bracelet clasp a special micro-adjust ability that gives it a very precise fit. Plus, you can change the size as often as you like for tighter or looser days. Rolex isn't the first to have a special bracelet clasp like this, but they do it oh so well. Inside the watch is the same invincible 3135 automatic COSC Chronometer certified movement. Not much to say there, there are few better three-hand date movements out there. It is of course 100% made and designed by Rolex. Price for the new Submariner watches hasn't been released yet, but I suspect they will be almost identical to the outgoing models. Look for them in stores soon watch lovers. The new piece might not be a monumental upgrade, but that isn't watch Rolex does. They just keep making their good stuff better.

• Details
• Description
• Features
• Reviews

Rolex Submariner Stainless Steel and Gold Mens Watch List Price: $7,825.00

Description

Men's Two-tone Rolex Submariner Oyster Perpetual wrist watch. This is a beautiful watch!

Features

• Automatic winding, 31 jewels, Quickset, sapphire crystal
• Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold case with 18k yellow gold bezel with blue insert (40mm diameter)
• Blue dial with luminous markers
• Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold oyster bracelet with gold center link through buckle,
• P series, with Rolex box and books

Reviews

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Rolex Submariner 14060 Non date Stainless Steel Watch
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1989 Rolex Submariner Stainless Date Watch Original Box Papers Ref 16610 388
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Rolex Submariner Mens Date Steel Black Automatic Watch
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1975 Rolex Tudor Blue Snow Flake Submariner Watch Ref 94110 UNRESTORED FIND 103
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ROLEX SUBMARINER MENS WATCH DIAMOND BAND BLUE MOP DIAL
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The first Oyster Perpetual Datejust Rolesor immediately became a coveted men's accessory, both masculine and highly luxurious. This year, Rolex has released a new, updated Rolesor, embracing all the latest watch making innovations and timepiece technology.

The new Datejust II features the slowly evolving design of the line, bring the hit watch of 1945 steadily into the contemporary age, making Rolex's Rolesor the go-to look for men, and now women as well, once again.

The four stunning dials of the Datejust II for men are testimonies to the brand's unparalleled stance in the industry as luxury watch maker. A fluted bezel in yellow or white gold makes a dramatic frame for the sleek texture of the dial, punctuated by bold Arabic numerals.

Classically pairing white and yellow gold with an either white or yellow Rolesor case brings the rich hues of the gold new brilliance while the large date at 3 o'clock is proudly magnified through the sapphire crystal. This time around, Rolex has extended its experienced and knowledgeable hand toward women, bringing female fans of the unparalleled brand the satisfaction of wearing the renowned Datejust Rolesor as well.

With a bezel crusted with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, the design is elevated to a new level of femininity, and when paired with 10 additional diamonds found in the dial of some models, it's as if the Datejust were a women's watch all along.

The dial of the women's Datejust Rolesor allows for a wide range of versatility, ideal for women, who not only look to their timepiece to tell the time, but to act as an accessory as well. From dramatic green and delicate pink mother-of-pearl dials, to the classic and modern look of black mother-of-pearl, Rolex has created a Datejust Rolesor perfect for any occasion and personality.

As creator of the first self-winding mechanism with a free rotor, Rolex has always aimed at design and execution excellence, believing that aesthetics and function go hand-in-hand. This year, a favorite is reinvented and released to both men and women, reminding us why we all fell in love with Rolex in the first place.

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280CT TOTAL FULL PAVE DIAMOND DIAL FOR ROLEX DATEJUST II 41MM WATCH
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NEW ROLEX MENS SS 18K WHITE GOLD GREY ARABIC DATEJUST II MODEL 116334
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NO.1 - HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION

The last decade saw a major rebirth of Hublot under the leadership of the charismatic Jean-Claude Biver. Circa 2004, the Big Bang was released and it hit the market like a sledgehammer. Since then, the onslaught of limited and unlimited editions has thrust the Big Bang forcefully into the collective psyche of the watch world, such that what was the invigorating and unique design of the Big Bang is oddly enough now a classic. Chalk it up to the genius of Mr. Biver at the helm of the Hublot ship, but that is how a classic is made with haste.

Now, the brand strips down the look for a thinner, more elegant watch known as the Hublot Classic Fusion. In a 44mm- or smaller 42mm-wide case, the simpler watch evokes the trend of classic timepieces while staying true to the brand. In steel or gold, various styles are available in the easy-to-read watch with a Swiss automatic movement, and a bit of the stuff that makes Hublot so hot. Nowadays, even the trendiest of sport watch brands can be true classics. Price in gold is about $20,000.

NO.2 - CHANEL J12 MARINE

Chanel as a producer of an important watch? These days, yes. Quality timepieces from fashion houses are growing in popularity and demand. In fact, tough economic times have seen a consumer stickiness to highly regard luxury brands as opposed to less known or unknown brands. Over the last several years, Chanel has single-handedly made ceramic the new emerging material of choice in the watch industry, and its J12 models have proved popular beyond belief.

While the Chanel J12 was a dive-style watch, the brand now releases a real diver’s piece with the J12 Marine. The case on the black version is done in a matte finished ceramic with dive-style hands on the easy-to-read dial. Matched with a vented rubber strap, the watch is a highly competent dive watch from a house of fashion -- and it will be highly successful. In addition to serving as an example that watches from popular brands are hot, the Chanel J12 Marine also serves to show that dive watches are still the most popular types of watches out there.

Available in black (with a matching black or blue bezel) or white, the piece is still very Chanel in style, but offers a more mainstream piece for the hungry watch-loving fans of the brand. The message is clear: A quality watch from a popular fashion house is a recipe for success in today’s market. Price is likely in the $5,000 range.

NO.3 - ROLEX SUBMARINER (IN STEEL)

Anything but unpredictable, the latest release from Rolex is an all-steel version of its ubiquitous Submariner. A new version of the best-seller is sure to help the brand stay strong and keep the watch world’s key markets busy with (relatively) high demand. Be sure to see bolder dials and a retro-shape on Rolex Submariner models everywhere. The case is now made out of exotic 904L grade steel, and there is even a quirky green dialed and bezeled version of the iconic black watch available. Still the rock-solid Rolex everyone expects, purists are split in whether the bolder look is best for the super brand’s signature product. No one can argue, however, with its more durable materials and ultra-comfortable bracelet as an improvement. Rolex keeps the mainstream luxury watch market strong with new models such as this.

NO.4 - CORUM ADMIRAL'S CUP

A new, simpler model in the aggressive 48mm-wide steel, PVD coated case, is the underdog winner of the brand this year. Black against white, the sharp, bold dial is uncomplicated and legible, deeply evocative of the Admiral’s Cup collection while being a less pretentious model. A mixture of polishes under the black PVD on the case adds to the visual interest of the angular case design, while the automatic mechanical movements (exclusive to Corum) offers useful and reliable timekeeping (keeping it simple with just the time, subsidiary seconds dial and a day/date indicator).

Interesting is the lack of Corum’s confidence that the model is a clear winner. As it is a limited-edition piece of just 500 whose success should hopefully spur the newly invigorated brand to continue in this high-fashion, though utilitarian, direction with at least a segment of its pieces. Price is $7,400.

NO.5 – SEIKO

Impressive almost every year, Seiko’s laurels are mostly technological. While a Seiko watch is clearly one of the top five pieces this year, the exact model we like best is a toss-up. Impressive are the new e-ink “EPD” watch and the 40th Anniversary Seiko Quartz Astron: The Commemorative Edition. Both take the limit of watch tech in important directions, but the new Quartz Astron wins simply because it will be available much sooner. Limited to just 200 pieces, the worst thing going against the watch is the hefty price of about $5,700.

The original Seiko Astron was the first quartz movement watch. Using the core style of the original, the contemporary version is in a highly polished titanium case with a double personality dial with a style that evokes the Grand Seiko. The new 9F62 quartz movement is very reliable, hand-built and accurate to within 10 seconds a year. It also has an instant change date, and the ability to move much heavier hands. This gives the Astron the personality of a mechanical watch with the reliability and accuracy of a quartz movement -- further reminiscent of the time when the quartz movement was making serious progress, and not just something found in every dime-store timepiece.

For Him:
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner
Unveiled in 1953, the Submariner was the first watch water-resistant to 330 feet. Its combination of unparalleled elegance and spy-friendly versatility appealed to Sean Connery’s James Bond. MSRP $5,175

Omega Speedmaster
The first watch to go to the moon (Buzz Aldrin and his Apollo 11 colleagues were wearing them when they touched down on July 20, 1969). Sporty and sturdy, this automatic chronograph is among the most accurate and affordable you can buy. MSRP $3,000

TAG Heuer Monaco
Issued in 1969, this stainless-steel classic was the first automatic chronograph to feature a water-resistant square case. MSRP $3,195

IWC Portuguese
Developed in 1938 in response to Portuguese tradesmen’s request for an oversized watch with precise, pocket-watch movement, this is IWC’s signature model. Available in every imaginable iteration, from the classic automatic chronograph to a “perpetual calendar” model, which features a moon-phase indicator that varies by only one day every 577 years. MSRP $19,400.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Swiss company revolutionized sport watch design when it introduced this model, with its octagonal case and eight visible screws, in 1972. The automatic, stainless-steel Royal Oak is now available with all kinds of bells and whistles, from chronograph to tachymeter, and is a big hit with golfers like Vijay Singh. MSRP $15,700

For Her:

Ladies Rolex Presidents

The Ladies’ Rolex President stands as a representation of one’s accomplishments and status. A prime choice of female politicians, executives, and actresses alike, the President watches are adorned with varying amounts of diamonds which sparkle magnificently on any wrist. Rolex Super President models differ from traditional Ladies’ Presidents with the additional diamonds which are set on the band and lugs, creating a timepiece which makes a bold statement regarding a lady’s refinement and distinction.

La Grande Classique de Longines
Capturing the soul and the style of Longines’ earliest design tradition, La Grande Classique de Longines watches have until today largely retained their original appearance and proportions. Changing expectations and technical advances have now prompted Longines to update their design, not least by introducing a larger case size and offering an even broader choice of subtly refined dial faces. But the slim, sleek La Grande Classique de Longines case profile remains unchanged, as does the cool elegance that gives this collection an appeal as enduring as the classic tradition itself.
L4.191.7.11.6

L4.191.9.11.0

Omega New Constellation
Omega has re-designed its iconic luxury watch line – Constellation collection which was created in 1982 and developed into a milestone in 1995 when super model Cindy Crawford started worked as Omega Ambassador. Constellation collection is one of the world’s most recognizable luxury timepieces with the famous “claws” that look beautiful and firmly hold the sapphire crystal together with the case.

The 2009 Omega Constellation watches are highly anticipated by global Omega fans as there has not been a new Constellation in years. And these fresh Constellation watches with dynamic and contemporary look can live up to expectations of their fans. They fully present new design features and technical innovation while respecting Constellation’s precious heritage. If you like matching his and hers watches Omega also has a men's line of New Constellation watches.

A fine Swiss timepiece is an excellent way to say "I love you" and every time that the timepiece is viewed. Notice all prices are the manufacturer’s suggested retail price ( MSRP). You will find all of these fine Swiss watches at substantially reduced prices at the Luxury Swiss Watch Shop

The difference between a $500 watch and a $50,000 one is often in the movement.

The ground floor of the Roger Dubuis factory, a top-tier manufacturer specializing in artistically extroverted timepieces, comes as a shock. This is one of Geneva's temples of haute horlogerie, a place where you'd expect the loudest sound to be the nearly inaudible cricket-song of a hand file against brass. But in this gigantic room blue- and white-coated technicians tend enormous, sleek machines. The air is redolent of oil and coolant, the ceiling is strung with pipes and conduit, and, here and there, warning signs and bundled cables testify to the huge amounts of electricity being consumed.

It's in a room like this that virtually every watch, from the humblest $100 automatic to the costliest limited-edition mechanical marvel, starts its life. The components are made by supersophisticated industrial robots--computer-guided automatic milling machines and spark-erosion fabricators. Which brings up a question: If this is so, why do watch prices range from less than the cost of a decent lunch to more than that of a comfortable suburban house?

The answer lies one floor up, where those raw parts undergo a dramatic transformation. Here the workers wear blue or white coats, too, but otherwise you've gone back in time. There are no robots, only tools that would be recognized by a watchmaker from a century ago. At one workbench, a woman uses a spinning boxwood disk to polish a delicate sine wave curve into the flanks of tiny brass-gear teeth. Nearby, another woman passes a movement repeatedly under a spinning disk charged with jeweler's rouge. As she does so rows of gleaming parallel stripes appear, like ripples in a frozen pond; these are the famous Geneva stripes, or Côtes de Genève, one of the signature movement decorations of the Genevan school of watch decorating. At yet another workstation, a young man works with painstaking slowness to give a tiny irregular movement bridge a beveled flank so that it catches light like the facet of a diamond. Each stroke is done with the care of a vascular surgeon stitching shut a hair-thin blood vessel.

These are the finisseurs (finishers), and it's their time-consuming, labor-intensive work that holds the answer to the question I posed earlier. The art of movement decoration has been part of watchmaking since the first table clocks were made during the Renaissance. Over the centuries national style developed: the reserved gilt-and–blued steel stolidity of English chronometers; the glitteringly sensuous Genevan approach; the superbly flat dress pocket watches of France, made as thin as possible so as to avoid disrupting the tailored fit of a waistcoat. Whatever the style, the finish of a watch movement was one of the purest expressions of a craftsman's pride, as in most cases nobody but the watchmaker himself even knew it was there.

Which is still the case: An appreciation of finishing is an insider passion even today. But a basic understanding of it can give the nonfanatic a new perspective on the price-value relationship of timepieces. Here are key points to remember.
Respect the robots. A modern CNC cutter or spark- erosion machine can turn out parts that without further finishing can be assembled into high-precision micromachines. The 'bots make possible entry-level mechanical watches from Swatch, Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Timex of a precision that would have been impossible at such a price point (often less than $500) a few decades ago.
More finishing does not mean more accuracy. Top-grade hand-finishing is really the connoisseur's delight--beauty in the eye of the beholder who knows how to recognize it.

Quality of finish and price tag don't always parallel. If a particular model becomes a collectors' darling (like the stainless steel Rolex Daytona chronograph), or if a brand is just plain hot, price follows suit, even if the watch has little or no hand-finishing.
Precious metals and gemstones change the equation. A machine-finished watch with one or both can cost more than one that is hand-finished. Rarity and peculiar provenance can make a watch expensive regardless of finishing.
Absent those factors, higher price means more finishing. A $10,000 watch, as a rule, has more hand-finishing than a $6,000 one.
At the high end, it's the finisseur. His painstaking work bestows a pedigree price. A $1,000 chronograph with industrial finishing becomes a $25,000 one with hand-finishing.

Above that, complication comes into play. At the very high end, it drives price as much as finishing.
Finally, finishing is a three-tiered cake: basic (robot), machine, and hand. Mechanical watches that sell for less than $1,000 compose the base. They have little or no finish beyond that produced by the robots that manufacture the movement. In the middle ($1,000–$12,000) are mechanical models with varying degrees of machine-executed decorative finish: attractive beveling, blued-finish screws, gleaming countersinks, and engraving. Watches at the upper end of this layer also have some hand-finishing. In the top tier ($12,000 and up) hand-finishing starts to predominate. North of $20,000, you're getting the full-on haute treatment, horology's equivalent of haute couture. A premium-grade movement like Vacheron's caliber 1400, the caliber 215 from Patek, or the caliber 3120 automatic from Audemars Piguet, is a singular object: The hand-finishing means no two are exactly alike.

And the expense is huge. The finest haute horlogerie brands train most of their finisseurs in-house. Just learning how to bevel a flank properly can take anywhere from one to one-and-a-half years. Learning how to black-polish steel to a mirror finish, hand-engrave a rotor, or apply Geneva stripes of just the right depth requires a touch that has to be passed down directly--there are few manuals to go by.

It's fair to ask why a top-notch timepiece is so expensive. But when you multiply the number of hours it takes to hand-finish just one part--more than half a day in some cases--by the number of components in the movement and then by the number of years it takes to learn how to finish a piece of metal the size of a fly antenna, it's easier to see how the price starts to add up. It's the hundreds of hours of human skill concentrated in a cubic centimeter.